In a quiet corner of Angus, Scotland, between Forfar and Brechin, lies the small village of Aberlemno. At first glance, it might be mistaken for any other rural Scottish village, with rolling hills, stone cottages, and winding country roads. But unobtrusively in plain view along its roadside and in its kirkyard are some of the most fascinating and mysterious artefacts in the country—the Aberlemno Sculptured Stones.
These beautifully sculpted Pictish stones provide a glimpse of what life was like before Scotland was Scotland, a life of warrior clans, old symbols, and a people who left no written history—but many questions. For anyone with an interest in history, mystery, or just a lovely drive across the Scottish countryside, Aberlemno is a destination that must be seen.
Who Were the Picts?
To appreciate the significance of the Aberlemno stones more, it is important to understand who created them—the Picts. The Picts were a group of tribal peoples who lived in what is now eastern and northern Scotland during the Late Iron Age and Early Medieval periods, roughly between the 3rd and 9th centuries AD.
They were so named by the Romans as “Picti,” or “painted people,” perhaps due to their employment of tattoos or body paint. The highly independent and often quarreling with the Romans, the Picts have not left any known written language. Rather, their legacy exists in the form of standing stones, which are inscribed with unique and often enigmatic symbols.
The Stones of Aberlemno
Aberlemno boasts five main sculptured stones dating from the 7th through to the 9th century AD. There are four by the roadside under wooden shelters for the winter and the fifth stone in the peaceful kirkyard of Aberlemno Parish Church. Each has its own particularity, styles, and stratification of Pictish symbols and art.
- Aberlemno Roadside Stone I
This symbol stone, carved in the early period, shows traditional Pictish themes—like a serpent, a double-disc, and a Z-rod. These are typical on Pictish stones but are not understood. Were they clan badges? Symbols of religion? Pictish codes only they could decipher? Nobody knows. - Aberlemno Roadside Stone II (The Battle Stone)
Perhaps the most familiar of the group, this stone is known as the Battle Stone. The great cross, completed with elaborate interlace design, characteristic of Celtic Christian art, is on one side. The reverse is a battle scene, with horsemen, foot soldiers, and dead men.
A few historians believe that it could be a depiction of the actual Battle of Nechtansmere in 685 AD, when the Picts overpowered the Northumbrians. If so, this would be one of Scotland’s earliest battle representations. The level of detail—the armor, the weapons, even the facial expressions—is high for its time.
- Aberlemno Roadside Stone III
This is one of the early symbol stones with a notched rectangle and Z-rod and mirror symbol, traditionally thought to mean femininity or wealth. The craftsmanship on this stone is highly crisp and in good condition. - Aberlemno Roadside Stone IV
A more modest stone, it too continues to stand in place in the series, contributing to the tale of Aberlemno’s abundant symbolic terrain. Its location implies that this area of the ground may have originally formed part of a greater burial or ceremonial site. - Aberlemno Kirkyard Stone
Located in the churchyard, this stone has a similar style to the Battle Stone with a decorated cross on one side and another image—perhaps of narrative or ritual—on the reverse. It is believed that this stone marks the intersection point of Pictish pagan culture with the emerging Christianity, something seen throughout early medieval Scotland.
What Do the Symbols Mean?
This is the million-pound question. Pictish symbols occur in groups, often repeated over stones that one views around Scotland. Even with extensive research, their true meaning is disputed.
Theories range from:
Heraldic or clan signs
Social class or occupation signs
Religious or spiritual signs
Astronomical or calendar signs
The beauty of these symbols is their mystery—each one an open-ended invitation to interpretation and imagination, connecting today’s visitors to a people whose lives were as rich and varied as our own, though their voices are silenced by the ages.
Seeing Aberlemno
A trip to Aberlemno is akin to a visit to an open-air museum, free of crowds or pomp. The stones are clearly signed, and the interpretation panels provide helpful background. Best visited April to October (when the wooden lids are raised), the stones can be viewed at leisure, surrounded by birdsong and Scottish countryside peace.
There are no admission fees or visitor centres—just history in its rawest form. If you’re heading there, consider pairing your visit with a stop in Forfar for a traditional bridie or exploring nearby sites like Dunnichen, which may have ties to the Battle of Nechtansmere.
Why Aberlemno Matters
Aberlemno may be tiny, but its stones are giant with stories to tell. They bridge the gap between prehistory and written history, between pagan ancient custom and the beginnings of Christianity in Scotland. They teach us that art and symbolism are timeless, capable of crossing centuries and inciting wonder and curiosity.
For anyone fascinated by ancient civilizations, the early medieval period, or simply the low-key magic of Scotland’s lesser-visited gems, Aberlemno Sculptured Stones are more than gaudy roadside oddities—they’re a direct link to the essence of an lost civilization.
Image from Pixabay
